Oak is still a big part of the story with Pape Clément's white wine, but the change comes in the introduction of a variety of barrel sizes and origins, including an increase in Burgundian barrels. They have wisely kept the signature round, citrus notes that long term fans of Pape Clément will be looking for, but as with the reds the overall feel is of a more sculpted, fragrant wine than in some previous vintages. To be honest, 2016 was not an easy vintage to dial things back, as the mid-palate can feel a touch hollow due to lacking the gripping minerality of the best vintages. But they have delivered an extremely successful wine, with rose and honeysuckle touches adding layers of complexity to the soft citrus flavours. Enjoyable.

Creamy-edged, with alluring brioche, white peach and wet straw flavors, this has a broad feel but keeps good cut thanks to a light verbena thread. The brioche note takes over on the finish.—J.M.

High-end Pessac-Léognan can sometimes be too imposing to drink when it is young. But here, there’s such freshness to the melon, pear and white-peach aromas with hints of candied lemon and vanilla, that you can’t resist. Concentrated, but with a sleek silhouette, this moves extremely gracefully across the palate. The super-elegant finish has vibrancy that suggests very long aging potential. A blend of 48.5 per cent sauvignon blanc, 38.5 per cent semillon, 7.5 per cent sauvignon gris and 5.5 per cent muscadelle. Drink or hold.