A white with sliced apple, pear and lemon character. Medium to full body, layered and so long. Tight and exciting. So salty and minerally. Structured. Phenolic intensity and all wound up. What a white!

Pure, with verbena, Key lime and kiwifruit notes carried by fresh acidity. Stays rounded in feel overall, with a light hint of brioche on the finish.—J.M.

This is clearly one of the more impressive whites on display here. They have teased out a sense of verticality, and you can feel the walls and scrape the flesh of the citrus. If it wasn't for the heights that we know Domaine de Chevalier can ascend to, you would be sighing over the structure of this wine. White peach and rich pear are seasoned with beautiful spicing, but it just lacks the grip and drama of the best vintages.

Zartes Bouquet nach Mirabellen und Grapefruit, dahinter Limonenessenz, Minze undLimetten. Am mittleren Gaumen mit sehr geradliniger Struktur, fast stahlig werdend. Besticht durch seine geniale Balance. Im druckvollen Finale mit Weingartenpfirsich und Zitronenmelisse. Was für ein verführe rischer Domaine de Chevalier!

Still very shy on the nose, but the candied citrus, fresh melon, pear and quince notes come through on the palate, together with discreet, toasty oak. Although this is really concentrated, the power is underplayed and the enormous, herbal and mineral depth steals up on you slowly and then whisks you away. You could enjoy it now, but there’s enormous aging potential. A blend of 70 per cent sauvignon and 30 per cent semillon. Try in 2021.